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July 29, 2025

The Unexpected Details That Make A Suit Bespoke!


When most people think of a bespoke suit, they picture a perfect fit: strong shoulders, clean lines, and a silhouette that flatters from every angle. And while the fit is undoubtedly important, it’s the less obvious elements, the ones you don’t see right away, that truly define a bespoke garment.

At Bhambi’s, these subtle, unexpected details are what elevate a suit from simple tailored to truly personal. Here’s a closer look at the quiet features that make a bespoke suit unmistakably yours!

Handmade Buttonholes & Functional Sleeve Buttons

In a true bespoke suit, the sleeve buttons aren’t decorative; they actually work. Known as “Surgeon’s cuffs,” these functional buttons were originally designed to allow doctors to roll up their sleeves during house calls. Today, they signal quality and authenticity.

But it doesn’t stop there. These buttonholes are sewn by hand, often finished with silk thread and subtle shaping known as Milanese stitch. It’s the kind of refined detail that whispers, rather than shouts, that your suit is something special. Many of Bhambi’s clients enjoy customizing the color of their buttonhole thread; this adds personality and a touch of extra color to their garment. 

different color button hole stitching on a bespoke jacket

Hidden Monograms and Personal Inscriptions

While initials embroidered on a shirt cuff or jacket lining are classic, we’ve seen clients personalize their suits with wedding dates, quotes, or even coordinates of special places. These details aren’t visible to the public, but they make the garment deeply personal.

Custom lining and date inside of a bespoke tuxedo jacket, suit jacket

Unexpected Linings in Bespoke Jackets

A suit is a black canvas for personality. From deep burgundy paisleys to printed silk florals or city maps, lining is where tradition meets play. Some clients choose a casual lining with tonal satin, while others prefer linings that tell a story, visible only in glimpses while they are moving or when the jacket is removed.

fun floral lining inside of a sports jacket

Bespoke Means Canvas Construction (Not Fused)

The internal canvas is never seen but always felt. A bespoke suit uses a floating horsehair canvas stitched between the outer fabric and the lining, allowing the jacket to mold to your body over time. Unlike fused jackets, a canvased suit breathes and moves with you. It’s a difference that is not very noticeable but will always be felt.

the inside canvas construction of a canvas jacket made by bhambi's

Pockets With Purpose

Interior pockets can be built around your life, a passport slot for frequent flyers, a slip pen loop, or a discreet card holder. Many of Bhambi’s clients customize the size and dept of their pockets to fit they belongings perfectly. This is a detail that is customized for personal everyday comfort, everyone hates a pocket that can never fit anything or one that is so deep your keys get lost!

Bespoke Lapel Width, Roll, and Shape

It’s not just about notch vs. peak. A bespoke lapel is cut and shaped to complement your shoulder, your posture, and your personal style. The roll of the lapel, the angle, and even the width is decided with precision, and intention.

The Feeling That It’s Yours Alone

The true magic of bespoke lies in the intangible. The way the suit falls on your frame. The confidence you feel buttoning it up. The knowledge that no one else in the world has the same one.

It’s not just about dressing well; it’s about dressing with identity.

author avatar
Harry Bhambi