Collar Style Guide — Choosing the Right Collar for Your Face and Wardrobe
The collar is the most visible and defining element of any dress shirt. The right collar frames your face, works with your tie or open neck, and completes the line of your suit. Here is a breakdown of the most popular collar styles available at Bhambi’s:
Point Collar (Classic) The most versatile and widely worn collar in men’s shirting. The collar points angle downward and sit close together, creating a clean, traditional look. Works with most tie knots and face shapes. Ideal for business, formal occasions, and conservative dress environments. Best tie knot: Four-in-hand or Half Windsor.
Spread Collar The collar points spread wider apart, creating a more open, modern silhouette. The spread collar has become the dominant choice in contemporary business dressing and works beautifully with a suit — with or without a tie. The wider opening accommodates a full Windsor knot perfectly. Best for: modern business, open collar styling, broader faces.
Semi-Spread Collar The middle ground between point and spread — wider than a traditional point collar but not as open as a full spread. The most universally flattering collar for most face shapes and body types. Works with virtually every tie knot and suit configuration. Best for: clients who want versatility across formal and business casual.
Button-Down Collar The collar points fasten to the shirt with small buttons, keeping them flat and in place throughout the day. Originally an American sporting collar, it has become a staple of smart casual and business casual dressing. Not appropriate for black-tie or highly formal occasions, but impeccable for everyday professional wear. Best for: business casual, smart casual, American-style dressing.
Tab Collar A small tab under the collar connects the two points beneath the tie knot, lifting the tie and creating a high, structured look. The tab collar is a sophisticated, less common choice that signals genuine sartorial knowledge. Best for: clients who wear ties daily and want a distinctive, polished finish.
Cutaway / Windsor Collar The most open of all collar styles — the points angle nearly horizontally outward, creating a dramatic spread. Designed specifically to showcase a large Windsor knot and works best with spread-heavy ties. A bold, European-inflected choice. Best for: clients who prefer bold style statements and always wear ties.
Mandarin (Band) Collar A collarless finish — just a standing band with no collar points. Clean, minimal, and modern. Works beautifully open-necked with a sport coat or as part of a fashion-forward ensemble. Not appropriate for formal tie-wearing occasions. Best for: creative industries, smart casual, open-collar dressing.
The Foundation of Every Great Outfit — Why NYC Professionals Choose Bhambi’s Custom Shirts
The dress shirt is the most worn garment in a professional man’s wardrobe — and the one that benefits most from bespoke construction. At Bhambi’s, we source our shirt fabrics from the world’s finest mills including Thomas Mason, Loro Piana, and Gladson, and hand-sew every garment in-house at our 14 East 60th Street atelier.
Every Bhambi’s shirt features hand-sewn collars basted and attached by hand so they hug the back of the neck without creasing, Italian interlinings for optimal structure and softness, and mother-of-pearl buttons reinforced against cracking and wear. These are the details that separate a truly bespoke shirt from everything else available in New York City.
